Day 12: Arches National Park and Carolyn's birthday!

Good morning and happy 24th birthday to our big sister Carolyn! Eric surprised her with breakfast of eggs, over-medium, hashbrowns and toast from the great little restaurant that hosted our campgrounds. I made some fresh coffee for her--which is a must under our standards :-)

We relaxed this morning and used the "complimentary showers" before we got back on the road for a 2 hour drive to the majestic red arches!

The drive seemed quick and we really enjoyed the moon-like landscape on our way northeast. We arrived at the arches around 1 and checked the visitor center out for which trails to tackle for the day and for tomorrow. We decided to hike the Delicate Arch today (3 miles) and then do the full Devil's Garden hike (7 miles) tomorrow.

On the drive to trail enterance of the Delicate Arch, we stopped to hike and take pictures at the Courthouse Towers at Park Avenue viewpoint, Balancing Rock and the Petrified Dunes.

Getting to Delicate Arch was semi-challenging, yes, the steady incline up rock face for nearly 1,000 ft involved a bit of huffing and puffing but then the damn trail drops off and nobody knew where to go. Thank goodness there was a group ahead of us that sorta figured out the trail, otherwise they trail continues on sandstone, which is hard to make out footprints in. Anyways, we finally made it to the Delicate Arch. I can hardly believe this was naturally created (over millions of years, mind you). It's simply stunning.

We rested, took in the spectacular views, had a couple granola bars and headed back. We drove into Moab and stopped at a little cafe for a bite to eat and to take advantage of their wi-fi. After uploading pictures and updating the blog we figured we'd better look for a place to pitch a tent. The barista suggested we check out all the BLM sites along the Colorado river there. There are 28 different campgrounds up a nearly 30 mi. stretch of hwy. And every single one of them was booked. And I mean PACKED... on a Wednesday!? Frustrated and getting a little worried, we turned around back towards town to look for more RV park/ campgrounds. No luck. Everything was booked solid there too. It's getting dark now and we still didn't know where to go. We resort to thinking about a hotel room, but at $70/night minimum, we're considering sleeping in the car. Finally we find a local hostel - The Lazy Lizard. The guy offers us a very modest cabin with one small bed for $30 or... we can pitch our tent in the backyard for $7. We chose the latter. Yet we soon find out it's $7 PER PERSON and we're setting up camp in a janky gravel yard of maybe 40' x 15' among 6 or 7 OTHER tents. Ugh! At this point, we were so exhausted and irritated we just tossed him the money and said goodnight.

The next morning we tried to set foot on a lighter note and so we decided the nearest pancake house sounded like the right step. After totally stuffing ourselves, we put on our hiking boots and filled our water bottles for Devil's Garden. Landscape Arch is so freaking fantastic. You can see it there in the picture cutting across the upper left side. Originally the arch that was formed here was much thicker, but in 1991 a group of hikers in the area heard a loud crack, then a thundering, as rock from the lower part of the formation fell creating a very thin and delicate reaching arch.



We continued along the trail exploring more arches and crazy cool rock formations. The views are just spectacular from up there. How fantastic this country is... Truly.

Day 11: Bryce to Hanksville, UT

Inspiration Point

Awoke to another cold morning so we revelled in the coziness and warmth of our tent. By that time, all of us were used to sleeping in a tent, but climbing out of a warm sleeping bag never gets easier. As per usual morning routine, we hauled out kitchen gear and supplies to make breakfast, which consisted of oatmeal, banana and fresh brewed coffee. While I set up breakfast, it is Eric and Mere who disassemble the tent and organize the car.

Today was relatively low-key, since we are driving to Arches National Park, about a 4 and a half hour trip west. We decided we had enough time to do an early morning hike before leaving Bryce - so picked the West Rim Trail. It runs deep into the canyon, a quiet and easy stroll this morning, as we made our way further into the Dr. Seuss-like, orange sherbet colored wonderland.

West Rim Trail

Picnic lunch stop in the arroyo of Peek-A-Boo Loop

En route to Arches

Fantastic Rocks at little pit stop before Hanksville, UT

Gorgeous canyon -- we couldn't help pulling over for a little look-see

Day 10: Bryce Canyon

Beautifully strange, Bryce Canyon was our next stop on our trek. We heard that Bryce was more "all down" as you make your way into the canyon trails, while Zion was "all up." We passed through Dixie National Forest and did some hiking on some of the rock formations that was similar to the ones we will see in the Arches National Park.


Before we arrived, we stopped at this amazing little restaurant called Bryce Canyon Restaurant (Okay, so the name isn't awe-inspiring) but man can they make a burger! Eric devoured this 1/2 pound Rodeo Burger, stacked with ham, bacon, LTO. Meredith and I daintily split a turkey melt with homemade rhubarb jam - holy heaven was that good. It was a fantastic lunch and ultimately made perfect with the homemade dynamite banana blueberry cream pie and coffee to boot! Nom nom.

Waterfall Crossing

We pulled into Bryce a little after 2pm and decided to set up camp in the North Campgrounds. Our site was nestled deep in the wooded part of the park, surrounded by pines that left a perfect opening above our tent to watch the stars--which we found out host some of the best stargazing in the world. That's a fact.

Mossy Cave Trail

After our tent was set we went for a hike at the Mossy Cave. This was a shorter hike and allowed us to go off trail to climb the unique rock formations. The colors were vibrant shades of yellow, orange and pink. This contrasted with the bright blue sky unlike anything we had seen before.  Along the climb up was a frothy stream that rushed past us as we crept up its embankments.  In the rock beneath the water was this gorgeous mahogany color that hid under the water flow of desert water. Near the top of the trail, a teal waterfall divided two small canyons. Our destination was just further ahead of the waterfall's beginning and into the unique rock formations.  So as we neared the top, there was a path that went around the stream.  But there was also a giant log that fell across the top of the waterfall.  Of course, we chose the more "dangerous" path across that log.  A little fearful that we may fall into the waterfall we took it easy while crossing the log and then proceeded up the ridge towards the hoodoos. We all had a great time climbing and witnessing such a beautiful creation of nature.

Fairyland Trails was the next stop in our exploration of Bryce Canyon, although the name threw us initially, it was a great hike and allowed for more climbing and bouldering among rocks that seemed to reminisce city ruins. As we approached the first overlook, we could see hundreds of these odd hoodoos that towered into the sky.  Some looked like they were taken straight from a Dr. Seuss book.  Down below were shallow canyons and crevices that separated each hoodoo and we started walking the path before becoming to anxious to climb one of these magical towers of rock.  So we trudged down off the beaten trail and towards the city of rock towers.  The girls had become expert climbers by this point and walking down a narrow ridge was a piece of cake.  Eric began jumping and climbing the rocks as soon as he could.  The rock itself was so brittle that it peeled off with some force.  It was a different feeling to see the hoodoos from the bottom rather than from a distant view.  They were a lot taller and more detailed with abrasive rock that littered the ground and into the shallow canyons.  After we got our feel for the hoodoos we climbed back up and continued down the trail.  All three of us were mesmerized by the sights far away.  In the distance, we could see tops of mountains coated with snow, and other ridges that blanketed the earth far as the eye could see.  These sights were just more of our experience that encompassed the whole road trip.  It was so peaceful at Bryce Canyon.  Not only were we bewildered at the rock formations that we thought only existed in Dr. Seuss novels, but the serenity that came with it was so uplifting.

So the three of us made our way back up the trail and drove back to our camp site.  That night, we could actually stay conscience long enough to see the stars.  After Eric lit the fire(that Carolyn couldn't ;), we are ate dinner composed of tuna packets and grilled cheese.  The stars slowly emerged from the daylight and into the night sky.  We all sat back and became immersed in the nothingness that existed in the sky.  What a great way to finish a day filled with so much adventure.

Fairyland Trails

Day 9: Beautiful Zion

Rise and shine!  The girls and I awoke anticipating the huge day that was to come.  Breakfast, shower, and gear--lets go to conquer Angels Landing, a must see and very strenuousness trail up to 7,000 ft. Joining us, as an honorary Milburn silbing was Laurence, a lovely girl we had met the night before in the lounge of campground. She was on a roadtrip of her own and was studying abroad in California as a film student. She was born and raised in Quebec and was also doing Angels Landing and we offered for her to join our clan. 

The four of us packed up the car tightly and headed West into Zion.  While we all had already seen the breathtaking landscape, it was now time to climb one of its magnificent peaks.  Angels Landing had a reputation as one of the most popular but most strenuous climbs in the park.  It reached a height of 1488 feet above the base which was around 6-7,000 feet above sea level.  The girls and I were ready for the adventure.  After a short shuttle ride, we took our first steps on the trail.
What a climb!  The entire path was on an steep incline that zig-zagged its way up the cliffs.  As we stopped for a few moments to look up, we could notice what a awe inspiring few Zion Canyon was.  It looked like a prehistoric landscape where dinosaurs could be seen down below drinking from the Virgin River that cut the two halves of the canyons.  The sunlight just peaked its way through the middle illuminating the rock that stood above the river.  Truthfully, there aren't enough words to describe what we saw and felt, but it was powerful.

Up, up we went for a few miles on an incline that changed from casual to leg burning!  I gradually began to separate myself from the girls because I was wanted to get a little sweat going.  Not to mention my 12-15 pound pack I was carrying with all the food, shoes, and other gear the group had.  I had mostly tunnel vision walking up the rocky slopes that ran along side the cliffs of the canyon.  I passed many people who were struggling to move up the monstrous trails.  Eventually, I arrived at a series of ramps that also zig-zagged up the cliff-there were 21 of them!  I was doing some heavy breathing at the top but at that moment, I saw the most unbelievable sight.  I had reached the first overlook that peered into the canyon with the river beneath it.  Trees coated the rusty cliffs and the sun struck the mountains with powerful beams of light.  I can't really explain the feeling that I had during this time.  I only stood in silence to appreciate what a wonderful world I was looking at.  It was inspiring to be apart of something so big, but so true.

The girls followed behind after 15 minutes as we looked at the actual path of "Angels Landing."  They looked exhausted and needed some more water and food.  I was already rested and ready for the next challenge.  As I approached the rocky cliffs, I could see dozens of people grasping the chains connected to iron poles that bordered the face of the cliffs.  This is what people had to hold onto if they wanted to maximize their safety.  I began climbing the rocks up and up as the people looked at me as the crazy guy who wants to kill himself.  But that's just who I am, I love adventure and thrills.  However, I did use the chains when the slopes became way to treacherous or I didn't want to put anyone else in danger.

It seemed forever and I couldn't reach the top because each time I neared the end of the face of the rock, there was another cliff to climb.  But finally, I reached the top.  It was spectacular, I joined other people at the top of Angels Landing, 5.7 miles of trails completed.  The girls followed behind shortly.  The four of us stood in awe at the valley below us.  That moment was the height of our trip.  It was a resemblance of our trip and our accomplishments as siblings.  This trip was to be a memorable experience and sitting at the top of Angels Landing embodied our adventure with hope for the future.  We can't wait to tell our children, nephews, and nieces about this experience and that moment sitting on top of Angels Landing.

We made it! On top of Angels Landing

The trip down was a little easier on the legs and we were excited to take off our shoes and take a dip in the Virgin River afterwards.  The blinding sun beat down on us as we cooled off in the cool water.  It felt refreshing but didn't replenish the energy lost.  Despite our tired legs, we decided to go for another hike.  We had to take in as much of this place as we could in the short 2 day stay. A shorter and much easier trail to the Emerald Pools which led us up into the canyon where green pools gathered beneath an overhang of rock.  The way up felt a lot easier after Angels Landing but we were all still so exhausted.  When we finally arrived at the top, I began to climb around the pool. There were giant rocks that circled it and immediately drew me in for a good climb.  The girls took some pictures and admired the extraordinary green pool.  But the sun began to fall behind the canyon so we trudged our way down the mountain face.  Our legs started to feel like noodles and our adrenaline was pushing every bit of energy we had left.  Thank GOD!

We arrived at the car begging for a place to sit down.  The ride home was silent.  No exaggeration--silent.  We had been on our feet for 10 hours and 8 of those hours was climbing up and down the canyon.  As soon as we got back to camp, we kicked Lawrence out as kindly as possible and raced up to our camp site.  In 15 minutes we were all ready for bed with daylight still out.  No star gazing that night, we needed our energy for the next day in Bryce Canyon.

Day 8: Zion!

Day 8: Road to Zion

About 10 miles before entering Zion, we had to make a pitstop to see the buffalo roaming the plains  (classic!) and pet some darling little ponies. One of them definitely looked like Little Sebastian, a very famous pony from our favorite television show Parks and Recreation.

After our little love fest with the ponies we headed further west and stopped at the Pink Sand Dunes. There we played in the sand and watched motocross bikes ride over these large sandy peaks. Carolyn and I definitely wore the wrong colored shirts since a pack of three bumble bees were following our every move. I guess we looked like bright yellow and blue flowers:-) Eric hiked up and down the dunes and with a finale rolled down the hill, screaming "as youuu wishh..." a family favorite quote from Princess Bride. We stopped and chatted with fellow visitors who were here on holiday from London. It seems that on this American Roadtrip we have run into more foreigners then Americans. One of the best parts if the trip is talking and meeting so many wonderful and interesting people:-) Onward to our climax stop in the roadtrip adventure-- Zion National Park and it was more than we ever imagined--absolutely unbelievable--jaw dropping.

The 13 mile road down to Zion Canyon brought many classic "Ooh's" and "Ahhh's" on just about every curve. We pulled off to eat some lunch and take in this haven (see view in picture below). With only half the day left we decided to take a light hike on Watchman Trail (about 2.7 miles roundtrip). Eric was able to go to the top but in the heat of the day, Carolyn and I decided to relax at the Virgin River and go for a little swim while we waited for Eric to finish.

We decided to set up camp at the Zion Mountain Campgrounds, right outside the park. It was Memorial Day weekend and absolutely everything in the area was booked solid. We snagged the very last site in the park! Somehow we've just had incredible luck along our route. We got to know the camp manager Lisa, who radiated that sweet southern hospitality.  She was just the nicest and most helpful woman, she even letting us take her little chihuahua, Candy, whose bark was commonly mistaken as a duck's quack, no lie. The campsite appeared pretty perfect too, isolated among red & white canyons. But Lisa warned us that, "it's great campsite; really secluded and all, just watch out for red ants, black windows and scorpions." --- Uh, okay?... so as usual, during the evening I took charge to thoroughly hose down our tent with bug spray and just about everything that I was going to sleep in. I hate black widows.

For dinner we ate at the campgrounds pizzeria, which offered a great deal of an ENORMOUS slice of pizza and drink for $6 bucks! Boom! Hunger defeated. <3 data-blogger-escaped-meredith="" data-blogger-escaped-span="">

Day 7: Four Corners, AZ to Kanab, UT

Each day gets harder and harder to beat the little treasures we come across, but today came close to topping them all. 

It's May 24th, and we finally made it one week into the road trip. We woke up a little groggy in the A&A RV park adjacent to Mesa Verde National Park.  Already knowing that we were in no rush, we slowly crawl out to greet the sun. I (Eric) was the first out of the tent and immediately needed to refresh.  Luckily, the campsite offered showers and bathrooms so I was able to douse my head in cool water and wake myself up for the big day.  When I returned, the girls were making breakfast, oatmeal and whatever fruit we still had left.  After a light breakfast and packing up the tent and gear, we left the park on our way to the Four Corners and eventually, Arizona.

The Four Corners is a special place to us because we knew it was the exact place our Uncle Eric had laid back in the early 80s.  The trip altogether was in remembrance of he and our mother who had done a similar trip.  We arrived at the Navajo operated park, paid the fee and entered.  The Four Corners is the only place in the country where four states meet in one spot; Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado.  Although it may not sound as exciting as ancient Anasazi cliff dwellings, to us it was spectacular.

We each took turns taking pictures of the intersection which was surrounded by desert on all four sides.  The girls posed as if they were playing twister in all four states and I did a full hand stand.  Of course, we did the spread eagle pose just like our Uncle Eric.  We knew he was watching us with a grin on his face.

After leaving the Four Corners, we drove for a few hours before becoming a little anxious at all the fantastic Southwestern scenery.  There was no way that we would stay confined in that little Saturn while a thrilling hiking was right outside the door.  So we pulled over in front of a gate which read "Keep Gate Closed."  It wasn't private property or anything so we proceeded over the gate and into the desert.  Around us lay tall, dry mountainous cliffs and down below was an almost dried up river bed.  However, to get down we needed a little muscle.  I was the first, followed by Carolyn and then Meredith.  Meredith, being the voice of reason, continued to question the danger that we wished to become apart of.  But, 2 against 1 always prevails so she followed us down the sketchy path.  We slid down a dusty landscape that was steep to say the least, cacti everywhere while tumble weeds blew by like an old western movie.  After finally finding a "path" to the bottom, we walked along the dried up arroyo where dozens of animal tracks followed along its edge.

We took many pictures and drank copious amounts of water until we decided that we had accomplished enough to head back up the dusty trail.  This time, a different path :)

Back in the car again dripping with sweat, we drove West towards the Grand Canyon.  Pulling over at a gas station that promised $3.59/gallon where we saw a group of bikers that looked just like the Sons of Anarchy.  The girls shared a few words with them smiling and wishing they could ride on their bad ass motorcycles.  But just like that, we hit the road once more.

As we entered the town of Page, Arizona we wanted to head south to see the North Rim of the grand Canyon but due to road closings, we were unable.  It would have been way out of the way and it was just more beneficial for all of us to drive northwards to Zion.  But we did manage to find the nearest Sonic which lifted our spirits.  

On our way to Kanab, Utah which was an hour south of Zion and our next destination, we discovered something pretty incredible.

Again, the three of us were getting antsy to get out and explore the magnificent landscape that lined our drive north.  We found a spot to park, put on our boots, grabbed our water and stepped into the wild.  There was no one else hiking which gave us a sense of isolation, just how we liked it.  Climbing the rocks and sweating like dogs, we trudged further into the hot sand until we found it.

All at once, we spotted what looked like a junkyard in between the canyon rock face.  As we got closer it became clear to us that they were abandoned cars stacked on top of each other.  These weren't just any cars, each one was at least 30 to 60 years old.  To our fascination, the cars looked like they were put their on purpose.  There was about 30 cars piled high against the rocky face.  I had to get a closer look to see a license plate.  "California-1970."  It was an old Monaco that had been demolished.  Why were they there?  Why wasn't there more people at this site?  We had no idea but one thing was for sure, it was a pivotal moment during our journey to come across something so mysterious and fascinating.

We furthered into the canyon climbing over rocks and boulders that needed some experience in climbing to get past.  It came to a point where we couldn't go any further and on the way back up, we all helped one another get up a steep rock stuck in between the canyon walls.  I leaped up first while Carolyn and Meredith struggled.  However, with our trifecta of teamwork, we were able to get up and walk back up the canyon. Mesmerized by the pile up of cars, we decided to call it "Junkyard Canyon." Those cars were a mystery to us but that was the best; not knowing.

So we drove another 30 minutes before coming to Kanab, Utah where we found a nice RV Campsite to spend the night.  We even got to treat ourselves by going out to eat at a Mexican Restaurant.  O fue una buena noche!

All three of us began setting up camp at Crazy Horse campgrounds--which was easy on our wallets and also had laundry and showers! Bonus:-) Setting up camp became rapidly easy for the Milburn kids and we did it in under 7mins. After our tent was ready we walked over to a Mexican restaurant to eat some good cheap food. Exhausted around 10 we walked back to the campsite.  Sharing laughs and stories, we laid back in our sleeping bags ready for whatever tomorrow had in store for us.

Day 6: Pagosa Springs to Mesa Verde

The stretch of pavement from Buena Vista to Pagosa Springs is stunning. Hairpin turns around every giant train of evergreens; we couldn’t help but pull over every mile or so to get out and explore.

We pulled into Pagosa Springs at about 9pm and looked for a place to crash. Skyview Motel rated “decent” on Yelp and was bottom line cheap so we stopped there. As soon as we checked into the office though, everything screamed, and I kid you not, Norman Bates Especially when he kept reminding us that it was a “family run business.” It was definitely questionable but after chit chatting with the owner a bit and seeing the room, it was a good deal for our money. In the morning we explored the town to see the infamous hot springs that made this town so sought after.

Most of the places around town sold spa packages that were reasonable, however; we were on a tight budget so we decided just to walk around and to our luck we found a public and very free HOT springs pond. We aren’t sure if you are even allowed to dip your feet in but we certainly enjoyed the 135 degree footbath. It was a perfect start to the next leg of the road trip as we made our way to Mesa Verde.

We followed the winding road till we summited the cuesta. At 7,000ft and at 82 degrees we needed our water bottles constantly full and camera ready for a day of exploration of this ancient and amazing Anasazi dwelling. Meredith and I remember venturing here when we were little, but only vaguely. To see it all and actually pay attention to the rangers was a completely different experience.

Now, a reoccurring luck has been following us throughout our journey; and it definitely came in full swing that day as we pulled up to the park entrance of Mesa Verde.
Today was the Grand Opening of the Visitor Center and all park entrance fees were FREE.
We decided to hike three different tour-guided sections: Cliff Palace, Spruce Tree House and our personal fav--Balcony House. Each was fascinating in its own right learning about the way these people constructed their homes in cliff overhangs that were scaled daily by every man, woman and child in the village. Once constructed out of clay and the surrounding lumber these villages could hold upwards of 130 Anasazi. What’s so bizarre though, is that they only stayed there for a matter of three generations before they up and left, leaving the entire canyon deserted in less than 100 years of occupation. 

Many theories surround their departure; perhaps it was the over farmed soil, disputes over food and environmental changes. Whatever the reason, they were there and gone in less than a century. And what an incredible home they left behind… We felt privileged to be able to enjoy such a historical treasure and grateful to the National Park Service for its preservation.

After this full day of driving, hiking and tours we welcomed the nearest R&R across from the park. Tired and ready for a good nights rest before the Four Corners and the Grand Staircase we set up shop at the A&A Campgrounds and were quite comfortable and happy with the $20 situation.